Is it not absurd the phrase “we
shall not wait for Karamoja to develop” though said half jokingly may actually
be true. It looks like people in this region are left behind. The area could
pass for another country altogether. But it is from the bad roads that it all
begun there is a way but barely a road.
The scenery is amazing there
are many plants and trees it is so green and the air is so fresh. You would
want to put your head out of the car to breathe in all the fresh air. When we
reached Kween District, the ride turned bumpy, we had to fasten our belts and
hold tight on the handles on top of the car door. But even that did not stop us
from bumping around in our seats as we travelled.
Getting
there
The first 30km or so of the
murram road after Mbale were fairly passable. It is after we went past
Chepsikunya that our troubles begun. There were gutters so deep that the car
tyres sunk into them yet it was a fairly big car. At one point, the driver
almost failed to control the car as it kept on sliding in the mud. Somehow we
managed to get out of it. Then we got stuck at another point and after one
hour, the only taxi that operates between Mbale and Karamoja passed by and
helped pull us out. As we moved on, the car slid and we knocked a truck that
was stuck in the mud. A window got shattered but thankfully no one was hurt.
Later, we were pulled out of that ditch too only to get stuck in another. Then,
the four wheel drive system got faulty, we could neither reverse nor move
forward. It was 7pm and we were close to Amuru but those coming from there told
us there were more such ditches ahead. We decided not to move any further. It
was a scary idea, we were in a game reserve. Thankfully, we had company; there
were 20 trucks and about 10 smaller cars.
A
night in the cold
One of the trucks belonged to a
trader dealing in merchandise. When it dawned on him that he would have to
spend the night there. He decided to turn his truck into a kiosk. Before long,
there were drinks, both hard and soft, on sale as well as snacks. Being close
to Mountain Napak, it was so chilly in the night. As we headed to the car to
sleep, one of the traders advised us to be careful if we decided to make use of
the bush to ease ourselves. He said leopards usually came out of the bush at
night. I remembered an earlier conversation where some of the traders mentioned
that they sometimes spend a week on the road because of the bad roads. They
knew the place better than us. We had to believe them. They also said when it
rains, it floods. As we slept, our only prayer was that it would shine bright
at dawn. And it did.
We woke up to see the sun
rising behind the mountain. In a way, that sight made sleeping in the car
worthwhile. At 1pm, we managed to leave the game reserve and we were in
Nakapiripirit two hours later. Nonetheless, Karamoja is a beautiful place
especially because of the landscape and the people. The females are mostly
tall, slender and shapely. Apart from the Pokot who are majorly of a light skin
complex, the rest are dark skinned. They have longish small faces with precise
facial features. But the Karimajong are not at the centre of life in the
region’s towns; instead it is the Bagisu, who are fluent in Luganda. In Amuro,
Nakapiripirit and Amudat towns that I visited, most of the business people were
Bagisu. So, even the few income-generating activities that the Karimajong would
engage in have been occupied. A few of the women trade in vegetables at a small
scale.
Karamoja relies heavily on
Mbale for most of the commodities they use. There was no fuel at a petrol
station in Nakapiripirit because the truck transporting it from Mbale was stuck
in the same area we had been. In one restaurant, our tea could not be served
with ginger because it had not arrived from Mbale. Those in Amudat district get
their commodities from Kenya as they are closer to the border between Kenya and
Uganda. Public transport is poor. Boda bodas are few and there is only one taxi
that travels from Karamoja to Mbale and back. The number of routes made depend
on how bad the roads are.
The night the driver helped us,
one of the passengers said bus companies that used to travel there stopped
because they spend a lot on transport. She said everyone has abandoned them and
even take from them the only treasure they seem to have stones that are ferried
to Tororo as raw material for cement.
Bright
colours
The telecommunications network
coverage is very poor. Newspapers are delivered two or three days late, in
rainy seasons they are delivered after a week. But the security is better now
though there is still the fear of travelling after it is dark.
The women dress in brightly
coloured clothes especially skirts with pleats. Perhaps, it is these brightly
coloured clothes that bring life to the area that is generally poverty
stricken. The people living in towns and trading centers are more friendly than
those in the villages who are also not as friendly. But the towns are still
graced by huts mainly built in the manyatta style.